My views do not necessarily reflect the views of my employer.
Subic Bay, Philippines
Subic Bay sits on Luzon’s west coast where jungle-clad hills meet a deep, sheltered harbor—once the largest U.S. naval base in Asia, now a Freeport packed with beaches, wildlife parks, duty-free shopping, and water sports. The adjacent city of Olongapo (population ~260,000) provides the local urban energy, while the bay’s naval past gives the waterfront its distinctive look and memorials. Expect an easy blend of American-influenced conveniences and Filipino hospitality in a tropical setting.
History:
Long before warships and wharves, Aeta communities lived in the forests surrounding Subic Bay. Spain recognized the bay’s strategic potential, but the defining turn came after the Spanish-American War (1898) when the United States established Naval Base Subic Bay. The base expanded through WWII and the Cold War. In June 1991, Mount Pinatubo’s colossal eruption devastated Central Luzon and damaged U.S. facilities; within a year, lease talks failed and the U.S. Navy departed in November 1992. Local leader Richard “Dick” Gordon mobilized roughly 8,000 volunteers to guard and transform the base into the Subic Bay Freeport Zone (SBFZ) under Republic Act 7227, seeding an export- and tourism-driven economy that reused docks, warehouses, and housing. Today, Subic blends relics of U.S. Navy heritage with eco-parks, beaches, and a yacht marina, while Olongapo provides the labor, markets, and nightlife. This conversion story—out of disaster, a new freeport—explains why Subic feels both familiar to Americans and distinctly Filipino.
Itinerary:
Arrival: Tuesday September 23, 9:00am (please allow time for port clearance)
Departure: Wednesday September 24, All aboard: 7:00pm Sail away: 8:00pm
Weather
- Average Temps (late Sept): highs around 31 °C / 88 °F, lows around 25–26 °C / 77–79 °F.
- Climate: Tropical monsoon. September is rainy season—humid, frequent showers, and occasional typhoons.
- What to Wear: Light breathable fabrics, hat, sunblock, insect repellent; compact rain jacket or umbrella; water-friendly sandals or sneakers with grip.
Near the Pier:
Cruise Ship Dock: Boton Wharf (SBFZ)
Address: Boton Wharf, Boton Area, Subic Bay Freeport Zone, Zambales 2222, Philippines
- Distances: port gate ~50 m | terminal ~50 m | town center (Harbor Point/Waterfront Rd) ~10 km (20–25 min by taxi; traffic-dependent).
- Terminal: small building; expect tourist/security facilities rather than a large cruise terminal.
- Port gate will be open 24 hours
Nearby Essentials:
- Pharmacy: Watsons or Mercury Drug, Ayala Malls Harbor Point (ATMs also here). ~20–25 min drive.
- ATM: BPI ATM, Harbor Point (Ground Floor). ~20–25 min.
- Grocery/Snacks: Royal Duty Free (Palm St. or Manila Ave. stores). ~20–25 min.
- Nearest Church: St. Anne Chapel, Moonbay Marina (Waterfront Rd). ~20 min.
- Nearest Golf: Subic International Golf Club, Binictican Dr. ~25–30 min.
- Nearest Shopping: Harbor Point (Ayala), Royal Duty Free, SM City Olongapo Downtown (bridge to Olongapo). ~20–30 min.
Getting Around:
- 🚶 Walking: Boton is an industrial pier—plan on rides for most places. The Waterfront Rd/Harbor Point mall-and-restaurant area is a drive away.
- 🚌 Public Transit: Jeepneys/city buses operate mainly outside the Freeport. Within SBFZ, routes are limited—most visitors use taxis, Grab, or private vans.
- 🚖 Taxis / Grab:Grab (GrabTaxi) operates in the Freeport, but supply varies. Many SBFZ taxis use posted/fixed fares (not meters)—confirm before boarding.
- Guide fare: Boton Wharf → Harbor Point (~10 km): ₱300–₱500 by Freeport taxi; Grab may be cheaper when available. Typical trips range ₱100–₱700 by distance.
- 🚴 Bike Rentals: Not common near the wharf; some resorts rent bicycles.
- 🚗 Car/Van Rentals: Available in Freeport and Olongapo; many guests hire a driver for the day for beaches/parks.
- Hop-On Hop-Off: Not available.
- 🚐 Shuttle (Ship ↔ Harbor Point): ~15 minutes each way.
- From Boton Wharf: Hourly on the hour, 10:00–17:00 (last 17:00).
- From Harbor Point: :20 past each hour, 10:20–17:20 (final 17:20 back to the ship).
Witnessing:
Ocean Adventure (marine park)
A long-running marine theme park set beside forested hills and a sandy cove; expect dolphin/sea-lion presentations, an aquarium trail, and beach access next door. Great if you’re traveling with grandkids or want a gentle day near the water.
Practical: Adult admission advertised around ₱680–₱850 (check date/promos); 2–3 hrs. Boton → ~18 km / 30–40 minby taxi (near Camayan Wharf).
✨ Tip: Combine with Camayan/All Hands Beach for an easy beach-plus-park day.
Pamulaklakin Aeta Forest Trail
Walk shaded jungle paths with Aeta guides who demonstrate bamboo cooking, herbal lore, and survival skills—an authentic, low-impact cultural-nature experience.
Practical: Entrance commonly ₱100–₱200 pp; guided walks ~1.5–3 hrs. Boton → ~12 km / 25–30 min by taxi. Trails are mostly easy with some stream crossings; sandals you can get wet are handy.
✨ Tip: Bring small bills to tip your guide; ask about the mini “jungle lunch” cooked in bamboo.
Hellships Memorial (Waterfront Rd)
A quiet, bayside memorial honoring thousands of Allied POWs who perished on unmarked “hell ships” in WWII. The setting—right on Subic Bay with the former naval HQ nearby—adds gravity.
Practical: Free; 20–30 min stop. Boton → ~10 km / 20–25 min by taxi (Waterfront Rd, near SBMA HQ).
✨ Tip: Pair with a stroll along Waterfront Road cafés afterward.
Zoobic Safari
A drive-through wildlife park best known for its tiger enclosure and tram rides; very kid-friendly.
Practical: Walk-in rates recently posted around ₱895 adult (promos vary); 2–3 hrs. Boton → ~20 km / 35–45 min by taxi.
✨Tip: Go early to avoid heat; many paths are unshaded.
Learning:
SBMA Waterfront & Former Base Landmarks (self-guided)
Walk or ride past Alava Wharf, the former Navy HQ, and marina to see how docks and depots became malls, hotels, and promenades—Subic’s conversion story in real life.
Practical: Free; 60–90 min. Boton → Waterfront Rd ~20–25 min. Background on base conversion is at SBMA’s site.
✨ Tip: End at the Lighthouse for a sunset drink.
El Kabayo Stables
A photogenic “Old West” set with well-kept horses offers short trail rides along shady lanes or out to a small waterfall—fun, gentle learning with handlers explaining horse care and Subic’s forest ecology.
Practical: Rides often ₱350–₱700 for 30–60 min (packages higher). Plan 1–2 hrs. Boton → ~10 km / 20–25 min by taxi.
✨ Tip: Closed-toe shoes are best; bring a light scarf to cut the sun.
Aeta Culture Demonstrations (at Pamulaklakin)
Short add-ons cover bamboo fire-making, leaf-wrapped rice, and forest crafts.
Practical: Usually included in guided options; 60–90 min.
✨ Tip: Ask before photographing people; most are happy if you request politely.
Discovery:
All Hands Beach (calm, family-friendly)
Small, sandy cove with mellow water—good for a few lazy hours between showers.
Practical: Day pass recently ~₱700 incl. SBMA fee; 2–4 hrs. Boton → ~10–12 km / 20–25 min by taxi.
✨ Tip: Bring reef-safe sunscreen; fish feed near the side rocks.
Waterfront Sunset & Lighthouse 720 Bar
Subic’s postcard sunset—bay, yachts, and a modern lighthouse with a sleek lounge for cocktails.
Practical: Free to stroll; drinks à la carte. Boton → ~10 km / 20–25 min by taxi.
✨ Tip: Smart-casual dress fits the vibe; bring a light cover for strong A/C indoors.
Hiking
Pamulaklakin Forest Trail — Easy–Moderate; shaded loops with stream crossings; guided 1.5–3 hrs. Taxi 25–30 min.
Mt. Cinco Picos (Cawag Range) — Moderate–Hard day hike (5/10 by some outfitters); exposed grassy ridges; typically 6–8 hrs with guide. ~1–1.5 hrs to jump-off from Freeport.
Mt. Balingkilat — Hard; steep ascent, very exposed; start before dawn, bring ample water. 5–7 hrs to summit/return; ~1–1.5 hrs to trailhead.
Shopping
Harbor Point (Ayala) — Modern mall with Watsons, BPI ATMs, restaurants, and basics. Taxi 20–25 min from pier.
Royal Duty Free (Palm St. / Manila Ave.) — Two convenient stores for wines, snacks, toiletries, and souvenirs. Taxi 20–25 min.
SM City Olongapo Downtown — Large mall just across the bridge in Olongapo. Taxi 25–30 min.
✨ Tip: Malls have reliable A/C and clean restrooms—great rainy-day fallback.
Exploring:
Anawangin/Nagsasa Coves (San Antonio, Zambales)
Volcanic-sand coves backed by pines; classic beach-boat day. Feasible with an early start and private van/boat: ~1.5 hrs road each way + banca ride. Worth it for beach lovers; not ideal in rough seas/rain.
Mt. Pinatubo Crater (Capas, Tarlac)
4×4 approach across lahar fields plus a short hike to a turquoise crater lake. Full-day tour ex-Subic typically ~10–12 hrs door-to-door; weather-dependent.
Hidden Gems:
Subic Spanish Gate – This impressive gate is the only remaining remnant of a Spanish naval station
Subic Bay Jet Monument – An abandoned US Navy aircraft is on display in the city that once held the biggest foreign US military base in the world.
The best Hidden Gem comes from one of your fellow residents:
Olongapo River – The Freeport Zone has a relaxed feel devoid of jeepneys and tricycles, and a pleasant waterfront strip of restaurants, bars and hotels. The same can’t be said of for the busy hub of Olongapo, which offers no reason to hang about other than to catch a bus. The pungent canal that divides Olongapo and the Freeport Zone feeds a slow and steady stream of raw sewage into Subic Bay. The Americans dubbed it “Shit River’ and it still goes by that moniker today.
What was the “Shit River”?
Source of the nickname: The name originated in the 1960s and 1970s due to the city’s open sewage system, which directed untreated waste directly into the river, causing a strong, foul odor.
The bridge and coin divers: The bridge crossing this river was a familiar sight for sailors going on liberty into Olongapo City. Beneath it, local kids in small boats or diving directly into the filthy water would call out to the sailors, asking them to throw coins for them to retrieve. This dangerous practice was a way for impoverished families to earn money.
Cleanup and end of coin diving: Due to the health risks and negative publicity, the practice of coin diving was stopped in the 1980s by putting up fences on the bridge. A 1994 report from the U.S. General Accounting Office also noted that raw sewage and heavy metals were flushed into Subic Bay, requiring a cleanup.
Memories of the past: The “Shit River” is now a part of local history and military folklore, remembered by many U.S. Navy veterans. Patches and commemorative coins have even been created referencing the “Ancient and Majestic Order of the Shit River”.
The city and the river have undergone significant changes since the U.S. military departed in the 1990s. While historical accounts mention the strong smell, the area has been cleaned up over the decades. The old bridge that connected the naval base and Olongapo was also torn down and replaced.
Tasting:
Local plates:
Sisig (sizzling chopped pork, Pampanga-style), inihaw (grilled seafood), adobo, bulalo (beef shank soup); desserts like halo-halo and Zambales’ famed carabao-mango treats. Street snacks ₱50–₱150; casual sit-downs ₱200–₱400per dish.
Texas Joe’s House of Ribs — a beloved expat-friendly smokehouse on Waterfront Rd. Expect US-style BBQ, big portions, and efficient service. (Avoid: Meat Plus)
Irish pubs:
If you want an “Irish-ish” vibe tomorrow night, these spots are open and reliable for a pint and live music:
- Cork Room (Subic Bay Freeport) — posts Mon–Thu 4pm–12am hours; frequent live acts.
- 720 Bar, Lighthouse Marina (Waterfront Rd) — stylish bayfront lounge; site lists 4pm–12am daily.
- Harley’s Pub (Baloy Beach) — beachfront sports & music pub; check its FB page for the night’s band.
Mexican:
El Filo’s (Subic CBD): open Tue 11:00–00:00.
Playa Papagayo Cantina Mexicana (Baloy Beach): open Tue 07:00–22:00 (weekdays to 10pm; weekends to 11pm)
Events:
Local hosts plan a Welcome Ceremony on arrival day and a pier-side sail-away show before departure (as advised by port).
Nightlife:
- 720 Bar (Lighthouse Marina Resort) — polished lounge with bay views; live music some nights; easy for a pre-dinner cocktail.
- Mango’s Beach Bar (Baloy Beach) — casual, beachfront, late hours; best by car/van.
- Waterfront Road — cluster of hotel lounges and cafés walkable side-by-side (once you’re in the Waterfront area).
Jazz: I can’t find a confirmed jazz set in Subic Bay on Tue, Sept 23, 2025. Jazz is rare mid-week here; most venues book pop/OPM/cover bands.
If you’d still like live music that night, try these spots (call/message same-day to confirm lineups):
- Lighthouse 720 Bar (Lighthouse Marina Resort) — regular live acts, gorgeous bay views.
- Cork Room (Subic Bay) — cocktail bar with frequent live singers/bands.
- Palm Tree Resort (Baloy Beach) — schedules live band nights outdoors.
- Willis Concert Bar (Olongapo) — dependable live-band venue.
Travel Tips:
- Cash & Cards: Big malls and resorts take cards; many taxis and small eateries are cash-only. ATMs: Harbor Point.
- Taxis/Grab: Inside Freeport, expect fixed-rate taxis (not metered). GrabTaxi coverage exists but can be patchy; try both. Confirm fare before boarding non-metered taxis.
- Safety & Etiquette: Subic is generally laid-back. Dress modestly when visiting chapels; ask before photographing people.
- Weather: September is stormy—build buffer time getting back to the ship; bring rain gear and pack dry bags.
- Water: Drink bottled/filtered water; resort ice is typically filtered.
September 24, 2025
I was IPM and had to stay on the ship the first day in Subic Bay, so I made plans to go out with Lyn after the drill on the second day.
I anxiously checked my watch as the drill’s debrief stretched on longer than I wanted it to. Then, as soon as we were dismissed, I raced out to catch the noon shuttle (The shuttle information must have come out after I did the presentaiton, so it’s not included above).
Walter, our Sound and Light Technician from the Philippines, was also on the shuttle. We asked for his advice, and he highly recommended a pizza place called Greenwich.
We looked on Google Maps, and discovered there was a Greenwich right across the Shit River! That was something I wanted to see anyway since Hidden Gems are my favorite.
It was raining just a bit, but we didn’t mind!
We found Walter’s pizza place (this was also where we saw the yellow jeepneys that looked like school busses, pictured above), but it was fast food. We wanted better pizza. I also wanted to sit down and perhaps have an alcoholic drink with it.
So we did another Google search and walked another 25 minutes through misty Subic Bay. Many of the locals seemed concerned that we were walking – perhaps in an area where tourists don’t usually walk.
We found the place we were looking for. We were among the only people there.
We ordered our food, and it started POURING outside.
By the time we finished eating, the rain had practically stopped.
We made our way back to the mall where the shuttle had dropped us off. I gather that going to a mall IS the thing to do in the Philippines.
I got a pedicure and Lyn got a chair massage.
We had to eat one more time before returning to the ship. Well, we were actually looking for a brewery as cool as the one we’d found in Keelung, but there wasn’t really one.
We settled for some beers and local food (pictured above).
We looked around and guessed that many of the other patrons in the restaurant were in the Military. Lyn is retired Navy so she struck up a conversation.
At one point, they all joined in a salute.
It was magical.
We travel to explore the rest of the world, but it feels like a wink from the universe when you run into people there who remind you where you’re from.