My views do not necessarily reflect the views of my employer.
Saturday, October 11, 2025
After three days at sea, I slept in, had a lazy morning, and then scanned my notes to see what I wanted to do in Ternate, Indonesia:
Ternate, Indonesia
Ternate (pop. ~211,000, mid-2024 estimate) is a compact, cone-shaped volcanic island off Halmahera in North Maluku—the fabled Spice Islands once coveted for cloves. Today you’ll find historic forts, a living sultan’s palace, black-sand coves with clear water, and views dominated by Mount Gamalama (1,715 m). While there’s no UNESCO World Heritage Site on Ternate itself, Indonesia has proposed a Spice Route nomination that includes North Maluku’s clove heritage. Expect warm, humid weather, friendly island pace, and seafood-rich cuisine—a distinctive blend of Malay, Portuguese, Dutch, and local Ternatean influences.
History:
Ternate rose as a powerful Islamic sultanate by the 15th–16th centuries, controlling the world’s only source of cloves and competing with nearby Tidore. The Portuguese arrived in the 1520s, building forts and trading posts; conflict culminated in their expulsion after Sultan Hairun’s assassination and the rise of Sultan Babullah (r. 1570–1583). The Dutch VOC later established Fort Oranje (1607) as their Moluccan headquarters, while smaller bastions like Tolukko and Kalamata guarded sea lanes. The island’s clove wealth drew successive European rivals (Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, British) and reshaped global trade. Colonial influence waned in the 19th–20th centuries as plantations spread elsewhere, but Ternate remained a regional hub. Today, the sultan’s palace (Kedaton) functions as a museum, and restored forts frame the city. Mount Gamalama—a still-active volcano—looms over everyday life, a reminder of Ternate’s dramatic geology that once enriched its soils and altered history. Modern Ternate blends island Muslim traditions, fort heritage, and spice-route pride with a relaxed coastal lifestyle.
Itinerary:
Arrival: Saturday October 11, 8:00am (please allow time for port clearance)
Departure: Saturday October 11, All aboard: 5:00pm Sail away: 6:00pm
Weather
- Average Temps (October): High ~31 °C / 88–89 °F; Low ~24–26 °C / 75–76 °F; humid. Passing showers possible.
- Climate: Equatorial, warm year-round (≈24–31 °C / 75–87 °F) with frequent cloud cover; drier late Aug–Oct. UV high.
- What to Wear: Breathable fabrics, sun hat, sunglasses, reef-safe sunscreen, compact rain layer; sturdy sandals or closed-toe shoes with grip.
Near the Pier:
Cruise Ship Dock: Yani Wharf (Ahmad Yani Port of Ternate)
Address (English): Jl. Ahmad Yani, Port Complex, Ternate City 97718, North Maluku, Indonesia
Address (local): “Jl. Ahmad Yani, Kompleks Pelabuhan, Kota Ternate 97718, Maluku Utara, Indonesia.”
Nearby Essentials:
- Pharmacy / Groceries: Hypermart (inside Jatiland Mall) ~2–2.5 km, 10–15 min by car.
- ATM: ATMs are clustered around Jatiland Mall and central Gamalama area (banks change; look for BRI/BNI/mandiri logos).
- Grocery/Snacks (quick): Indomaret/mini-marts across town; one cluster in Takoma/Gamalama ~2–3 km.
- Nearest Church (Christian): Gereja Katolik Santo Willibrordus (St. Willibrord) ~2.5–3 km SW of the port.
- Nearest Shopping (mall/market): Jatiland Mall (shops, cafés) ~2–2.5 km; Gamalama Market (local produce & street food) ~3–4 km.
FYI: Port area is busy; follow local security and stay within marked pedestrian zones.
Getting Around:
🚶 Walking: Waterfront strolls are feasible, but key sights cluster 2–4 km from the pier; heat and crossings can be challenging—consider a short ride.
🚌 Public Transit: Angkot (shared minivans) circulate frequently; typical fares Rp 9,000–10,500 depending on route.
🚖 Taxis / Apps: Metered taxis are limited; ride-hailing Gojek/Maxim operate in Ternate. Short rides in town often Rp 10k–30k on ojek (motorcycle taxi).
- Pier → Fort Oranje: 2–3 km, ~10–15 min by car.
- Pier → Jatiland Mall: ~2–2.5 km, ~10 min.
🚴 Bike Rentals: Not common.
🚗 Car Rentals: Limited; usually arranged via hotels/drivers.
Witnessing:
Fort Oranje (Benteng Oranye), Ternate — VOC stronghold (1607–1609)
Ternate’s most imposing fort anchors the old spice capital where the Dutch East India Company briefly centered its Moluccan power. Walk the broad curtain walls, peer from the four bastions, and picture clove-laden ships threading the Halmahera Strait. Inside the leafy parade ground you’ll find cultural offices and occasional community events; restoration has kept much of the stonework intact despite quakes. It’s compact, atmospheric, and ideal for framing Ternate’s Sultanate–Portuguese–Spanish–Dutch tug-of-war.
Practical: Typically free/nominal fee; allow 45–60 min. From Yani Wharf it’s about 2–3 km (≈10–15 min by car/ojek). Surfaces are uneven; bring sun/heat protection.
✨ Tip: Climb the ramparts along the seaward side for sightlines toward Tidore—a perfect quick history talk stop before continuing to the Sultan’s Palace.
Fort Tolukko (Benteng Portugis Tolukko), Ternate — cliff-top lookout on the spice route (1522)
A pocket-sized, cliff-edge stronghold first raised by the Portuguese in 1522, Fort Tolukko guarded the clove lanes between Ternate and Halmahera. Its compact, irregular plan hugs the bluff; from the ramparts you frame classic views toward Tidore and the strait—easy to imagine spice galleons threading the channel. Control passed through Ternate’s sultans and later the Dutch/Spanish/British, and the site you see today is a tidy restoration with a small garden and stone steps to the parapet.
Practical: Expect a small entry/donation (often ~IDR 5,000); plan 30–45 min. From Yani Wharf, it’s roughly 4–5 km(about 20–25 min by car/ojek, traffic/roadworks dependent). Surfaces are uneven; bring sun/heat protection. Hours can be irregular—if the gate is shut, nearby caretakers may open it.
✨ Tip: Go mid-morning (clearer skies, gentler heat) and walk the seaward wall for the best sightlines to Halmaheraand Tidore; photographers love the elevated angle and occasional aircraft approaches in the background
Kedaton Sultan Ternate (Sultan’s Palace Museum) — living court, spice-route memory (1813) On a hill above Soa-Sio, this octagonal royal palace—commissioned by Sultan Muhammad Ali in 1813—houses heirlooms of the Ternate sultanate: gilded thrones, weapons, textiles, maps, and court portraits. It still anchors the working royal complex linked to the Sultan’s Mosque (Sigi Lamo) and ceremonial spaces. One famed object is the palace crownsaid to sprout human hair, trimmed in a ritual around Eid al-Adha—a window into living tradition as much as history. The setting frames sea views with Mount Gamalama rising behind.
Practical: Typically open Tue–Sun ~08:00–14:00 (WIT); closed Mon/holidays. Expect a nominal ticket (~Rp 5,000). From Yani Wharf it’s ~3 km / 15–20 min by car/ojek. Dress modestly; some rooms may be closed during events.
✨ Tip: Ask staff about current exhibits and the story of the growing-hair crown; then pair the palace with nearby Fort Oranje for a tight, 90-minute heritage loop before returning to the pier.
Lake Tolire (Danau Tolire) — emerald crater beneath Gamalama
A near-perfect, tree-fringed crater lake tucked under the flanks of Mount Gamalama, Tolire feels hushed and otherworldly—sheer green walls drop to opaque jade water that locals regard as sacred. Story-laden folklore explains its origin, while the setting serves up big views: volcano above, Halmahera Strait glinting between palms. Roadside lookouts host coconut and snack stalls, and you’ll often see locals attempting the famous coin toss—an optical-illusion trick where coins seem to “miss” the lake despite a short throw.
Practical: Usually free (small parking/stand fee possible); plan 45–60 min. From Yani Wharf it’s ~12 km / 35–45 min by car/ojek. Paths and steps are uneven with little shade—bring water, hat, and grippy footwear. No swimming or boating.
✨ Tip: Visit late afternoon for softer light on the crater walls. Try the coin toss from the main viewpoint—aim straight out (not down) to see the illusion.
Learning:
Fort Kalamata (Benteng Kalamata / Kayu Merah) — seaside bastion facing Tidore Set near the shoreline in Kayu Merah, this compact star-bastion guarded the narrow straits where clove ships once sailed between Ternate, Maitara, and Tidore. First raised in the Portuguese era and later refortified under the Dutch VOC, it takes its name from Prince Kalamata of Ternate. Low, thick walls, a central watch platform, and neat lawns make it an easy site to explore, with photogenic angles to the neighboring volcano-islands. Sea breeze, cannon embrasures, and placards give just enough context for a quick, atmospheric stop.
Practical: Small entry/donation; plan 30–45 min. From Yani Wharf: ~6 km / 20–25 min by car/ojek. Surfaces can be hot and uneven—wear grippy sandals or shoes; bring sun/hat.
✨ Tip: Time your visit for late afternoon—soft side-light warms the stone and you’ll catch golden views across to Tidore (great skyline shots if clouds ring the peaks).
Sultan of Ternate Mosque (Masjid Sultan Ternate / Sigi Lamo) Ternate’s royal mosque is a living center of worship tied to the sultanate, with a distinctive tiered, Javanese-style roofover a square prayer hall supported by saka guru pillars. The complex—likely dating to the early 1600s—sits in Soa Siobeneath Mount Gamalama and is used for court rituals during Ramadan. Expect a serene courtyard, gateway pavilion, and understated interiors focused on devotion rather than ornament.
Practical: Usually free (donation welcome); allow 30–45 min. From Yani Wharf it’s about 3 km / 10–15 min by car. Dress modestly (shoulders/knees covered); shoes off before entering. Photography may be restricted inside. Note: Local rules emphasize sanctity—women may be asked not to enter the main hall, and trousers/head covering for men are sometimes requested; when in doubt, observe from the courtyard and follow staff guidance.
✨ Tip: Pair the mosque with nearby Kedaton (Sultan’s Palace) Museum and Fort Oranje for a compact heritage loop before returning to the pier.
Discovery:
Batu Angus Lava Field — frozen rivers of black rock On Gamalama’s lower slopes, jagged aa-lava sprawls like a charcoal ocean—spiky waves, twisted ridges, and pockets where scrub and wildflowers reclaim the rock. Paths thread through the flows to simple viewpoints of the volcano above and the Halmahera Strait below. It’s an easy way to feel Ternate’s volcanic power without a full mountain hike—otherworldly textures, heat shimmering off basalt, and sharp contrasts when clouds scud over the cone.
- Practical: Generally free (small parking/vendor fees possible). Allow 30–45 min. From Yani Wharf: ~10 km / 30–35 min by car/ojek. Surfaces are uneven and sharp—wear closed shoes with good grip, bring water, hat, and a light sun layer.
✨ Tip: Aim for late afternoon when low light sculpts the lava’s textures; a short climb onto a safe ridge yields dramatic photos with Gamalama in frame.
Sulamadaha Beach & Bay — clear water, black-sand cove A locals-favorite on Ternate’s northwest coast, Sulamadaha pairs inky volcanic sand with glass-clear water that turns turquoise over light patches—perfect for an easy snorkel from shore. Palm shade, a small jetty, and cliffy headlands frame the bay; on calm days you can spot reef fish within a few fin kicks. Facilities are basic (simple stalls, rentals, showers), and weekends bring a cheerful crowd of families and selfie-hunters.
- Practical: Usually free (small parking/umbrella/rental fees apply). Allow 1.5–2 hrs. From Yani Wharf: ~15 km / 40–50 min by car/ojek. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, water shoes (pebbly entry), cash, and your own mask if you prefer. No lifeguards; heed locals about currents and boat lanes.
✨ Tip: Pair Sulamadaha with nearby Jikomalamo Cove for a two-stop snorkel run—arrive before 10:00 for calmer seas and fewer crowds.
Jikomalamo Cove — pocket snorkel spot with calm water
A petite, sheltered inlet just south of Sulamadaha, Jikomalamo trades long sand for a small arc of pebbly beach and clear, usually calmer water. Slip in and you’ll meet reef fish within a few kicks; on bright mornings the shallows glow teal over light sand patches, with darker coral gardens beyond. Simple huts and shade trees ring the shore, and local operators sometimes rent masks or offer short boat drops along the headland for deeper coral.
- Practical: Usually free (expect small parking/umbrella/rental fees). Plan 60–90 min. From Yani Wharf: ~14–15 km / 40–50 min by car/ojek (pair with Sulamadaha). Entry is pebble/rock—water shoes help. Bring reef-safe sunscreen, cash, and your own snorkel set if you’re particular. No lifeguards; heed locals about boat lanes and currents.
✨ Tip: Go before 10:00 for the calmest surface and best visibility; if a light chop builds, hug the right-hand headlandwhere it stays more protected.
Diving Ternate is a springboard to Halmahera liveaboards and local shore/boat dives (e.g., Sulamadaha/HOL, Jikomalamo). Several operators (e.g., Dodoku or Nasijaha clubs) arrange dives when conditions permit. Best seasons commonly cited include Apr–May and Oct–Dec with 20–30 m visibility. Allow ample buffer to meet ship times.
Hiking
- Mount Gamalama Ascent: Steep rainforest trail to crater rim; strenuous. 6–8 hrs round-trip; guide recommended; start pre-dawn; weather-dependent. ✨Tip: Volcanic conditions can change—check latest advice locally.
- Tolire Lake Rim Walks: Short, informal paths to viewpoints; easy-moderate; 30–60 min. ✨Tip: Carry water; little shade.
Shopping
Jatiland Mall: Air-conditioned mall (food court, cafés, cinema, Hypermart). ~2–2.5 km/10 min by car. ✨Tip: Good for ATMs and travel essentials.
Gamalama Market — spice-scented heart of Ternate
This lively central market hums from first light: piles of cloves and nutmeg, pyramids of chilies and limes, kenari (canarium) nuts, sago, and just-landed tuna laid on ice. You’ll hear vendors calling over the buzz of scooters and the distant call to prayer; smoke from ikan bakar (grilled fish) and skewers drifts in by late morning. It’s the place to feel everyday Ternate—friendly banter, fast hands making dabu-dabu salsa, and stalls selling clove-laced sweets and coffee.
- Practical: Free; plan 45–60 min. Best early morning for peak produce. From Yani Wharf: ~3–4 km / 10–15 min by car/ojek (walkable in heat only if you’re keen). Bring small rupiah notes, a tote, and hand gel; watch your pockets in tight aisles.
✨ Tip: Ask for a taste of kenari nut brittle and a cup of kopi cengkeh (clove coffee). For photos, buy a small item first—it’s a friendly way to break the ice before you shoot.
Exploring:
Tidore Island — sister sultanate across the strait (easy day from Ternate)
Across the water from Ternate, Tidore feels quieter and just as storied—home to its own sultanate, Spanish-era hill forts, and the steep volcanic cone Kie Matubu. A short boat hop lands you near Soasio, where Kedaton Tidore (Sultan’s Palace) anchors a compact old town; climb to Fort Tahula for sweeping views over Maitara, Ternate, and the Halmahera Strait. The island’s lanes thread cloves, nutmeg, and village life with blue-water panoramas—perfect for a half-day heritage loop if you don’t have time for the summit hike.
Practical: From Ternate’s Bastiong port, frequent public boats run to Rum (Tidore); fares are inexpensive, and crossings are short, with multiple departures daily (first boats around 07:00, last returns late afternoon—confirm locally). From Rum, continue by angkot/ojek to Soasio and up to Fort Tahula. Allow 3–4 hours for palace + fort + coffee stop. Dress modestly for palace/mosque areas; carry cash and water.
Highlights to target (quick loop):
- Kedaton Tidore (Sultan’s Palace) — royal complex and museum pieces (hours can vary).
- Fort Tahula (1615, Spanish) — well-sited bastion with spectacular outlooks; light walk to the ramparts.
- Optional: Kie Matubu summit hike for strong hikers (start from Gurabunga; guide recommended; ~5–6 hours round trip for most). Not feasible on a tight cruise call.
✨ Tip: Boats to Tidore run when there’s demand—go earlier in the morning for cooler weather and to guarantee a seat back. If skies are clear, time Fort Tahula for late-morning or mid-afternoon photography.
Hidden Gems:
- Fort Oranje back-streets murals & coffee kiosks—casual photo stops between heritage sites.
- Ternate Island – The remote island home of the overlooked explorer who co-discovered the theory of evolution by natural selection
Tasting:
Try ikan bakar (char-grilled fish), papeda (sago porridge) with tuna/yellowtail soup, dabu-dabu chili salsa, and clove-scented sweets. Night grills near Gamalama sell whole fish (often from ~Rp 100k depending on size). Coffee stalls pour local robusta blends. ✨Tip: Ask for “sambal dabu-dabu” on the side if you prefer mild.
Irish pubs / Mexican restaurants: None notable in Ternate during daytime hours near port. (Offerings are limited and mostly local cafés/warungs.)
Travel Tips:
- Cash vs. Card: Carry rupiah cash; cards may work at malls/hotels, less so at stalls/boats. ATMs in city center.
- Ride-Hailing: Gojek/Maxim are handy; motorcycle taxis (ojek) are fast and inexpensive for short hops. Confirm fare if not using an app.
- Heat & Rain: Hydrate, shade up, and expect brief showers.
- Boats to Tidore/Halmahera: Schedules are fluid; small boats depart when full—allow buffer time to return.
- Volcano Awareness: Gamalama is active; heavy rain can trigger lahars. Heed local advice and weather notices.
I took a look at the map and decided to walk along the waterfront to the market. I met up with Paul, who joined me for the adventure.
I’m an adventurous eater, as is Paul, but both of us were concerned about tasting things that had been sitting out in the heat all day.
As people who took pride in trying foods other people wouldn’t dare eat, I giggled to myself at how we were almost overly-justifying why we weren’t partaking in the food today.
These pastries looked tasty, though:
We found the fish section!
Paul used to work as a chef on ships, so he was fun to explore the market with. He appreciated the fish, while I appreciated the kittens.
There were cats everywhere!
Paul said they would be happy to chop off these chicken’s heads for me.
I declined.
Even in the middle of the day, I managed to find a dark alley.
Back in Japan, Michele and Steven would make fun of me because I love the dark alleys.
Unfortunately, this one just led to a dead end.
While we didn’t eat at McDonalds, I love to see how the menu differs from one country to another.
As we made our way back toward the ship, we decided to skip the mall- I had spent enough time in malls lately.
But then we saw a Transformer step out of the shadows across the street and casually walk toward the entrance.
Now we HAD to check it out.
This mother and daughter were riding giant stuffed animals around the mall (they even played their own music).
When Paul used universal sign language to ask permission to take their photo, the mom enthusiastically said yes.
Then she asked if her daughter could pose with the white man.
I absolutely felt like I was on the other side of the world.
Hot, tuckered out and Ternate-satisfied, we returned to the ship.